Every walk tells a story

Author: chris (Page 11 of 17)

early spring, unedited # 02 – altadena crest trail

I see Things When I Walk (For Claude Nougaro)

The angel sat cross-legged on what remains of the ‘love seat’ when, after much sweating, I reached the ruins of the Echo Mountain Resort. He sat on the very spot where Thaddeus Lowe, father of the ill-fated Mt Lowe Railway that used to take visitors on an hair-raising ride from the resort to the Mt Lowe summit, twenty-four hundred feet higher, used to sit with his wife Leontine admiring sunsets over the Los Angeles basin. The ageless face turned slowly when I approached. He smiled with his deeply set dark eyes, shadowed by thick, abundant eyebrows that matched his bushy black hair. If I had to guess I would say he was from Toulouse, but who knows. Regardless, I was surprised; in twenty years of hiking to this spot regularly I’d never encountered anyone. The crowds that reach the resort tend not to drift this far over to the eastern edge of the ruins.

What do you see? Asked the angel.

What do you mean? I replied, and aware, for the first times that I’d identified this dark-haired buddha-like apparition as an angel.

When you walk…he explained.

When I walk? I see–things? I threw out. Why an angel?

What?

I see things when I walk. Why not an old man with an angel face?

Do you see what I see?

What?

What I see.

I see what I see. Why not an old man with an angel face twirling an angel feather over his head? I see things buzzing, blooming, flying, crawling, floating, shining, shimmering, I pointed at him, sitting, rotting, pollinating, scampering, scattering, cawing, chirping…

WAIT. The angel interrupted.

What?

Do you see this feather? He leaned forward and said, in an enthusiastic, overjoyed, almost ecstatic whisper, because if you do the world is saved! SAVED, You hear me? Love will prevail! Beauty and goodness will rule the earth!

I see.

 

 

Walking Project 119_early spring, unedited # 02 – altadena crest trail from chris worland on Vimeo.

unedited #01 – echo mountain

A couple of fun koindinks today. First, I landed on the ruins of the Echo Mountain Resort early enough to avoid the crowds, so I was able to enjoy a cup of chai and a morning read, in the spot where, a century ago, travelers partied, danced, gambled, and frolicked,  and I came across this Byron stanza, totally unplanned:

In Venice Tasso’s echoes are no more,

And silent rows the songless gondolier;

Her palaces are crumbling to the shore,

And music meets not always now the ear:

Those days are gone–but Beauty still is here;

States fall, arts fade–but Nature doth not die,

Nor yet forget how Venice once was dear,

The pleasant place of all festivity,

The revel of the earth, the masque of Italy!

from Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, Canto IV, by Lord Byron

Second, I finished this early spring morning walk at Cafe de Leche, in Altadena. Now, any joint that’s going to have Joe Dassin’s “Champs Elysées” on their playlist is alright by me. I used to really dig this stuff as a kid, go figure. It’s really, really obscure, unless you’re a fifty-something francophone with questionable musical tastes.

Walking Project 118_unedited #01 – echo from chris worland on Vimeo.

oh rome! – rome

Three poems, or excerpts of poems, about Rome’s glorious past.

Oh, Rome — a proud land of lechery, of evil,

It’ll come the trial’s day — a hammer and an anvil.

I see the end of your ‘eternal’ reign:

Your crown, in the dust, will never rise again.

The youthful nations — suns of bloody battle –

Will raise the sword above your people-cattle,

Just leaving after them the mountains and seas,

And flooding all your land as waters of the streams.

The Rome will fall; it will be covered by a darkness;

And, just a traveler, while seeing stones’ vastness,

And lost in gloomy thoughts, at last will give a yell:

“By freedom Rome’s bred, by slavery it’s felled.”

by Aleksander Pushkin

……..

Then none was for a party;

Then all were for the state;

Then the great man helped the poor,

And the poor man loved the great:

Then lands were fairly portioned;

Then spoils were fairly sold:

The Romans were like brothers

In the brave days of old.

 

from “Horatius” by Thomas Babbington Macaulay

…..

LXXVIII
Oh Rome! my country! city of the soul!
The orphans of the heart must turn to thee,
Lone mother of dead empires! and control
In their shut breasts their petty misery.
What are our woes and sufferance? Come and see
The cypress, hear the owl, and plod your way
O’er steps of broken thrones and temples, Ye!
Whose agonies are evils of day —
A world is at our feet as fragile as our clay.

LXXIX
The Niobe of nations! there she stands,
Childless and crownless, in her voiceless woe;
An empty urn within her wither’d hands,
Whose holy dust was scatter’d long ago;
The Scipios’ tomb contains no ashes now;
The very sepulchres lie tenantless
Of their heroic dwellers: dost thou flow,
Old Tiber! through a marble wilderness?
Rise, with thy yellow waves, and mantle her distress.

From “Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage”, Canto the Fourth, by Lord Byron


Walking Project 117_Oh Rome! – rome from chris worland on Vimeo.

el jem colosseum – el djem

There’s not much in common between Heaton Flats in the San Gabriel mountains, California, and the El Jem Colosseum, or Amphitheater, in El Djem, Tunisia, except for…ants.

The Gladiator Ant

The tourist was starved and his neck hurt by the time he reached El Djem. He’d been staring out the passenger window at the countless olive tree groves separated by cactus hedges that lined the highway from Tunis. The monotony of the two plus hour road trip only broken up by toll stations doubling as police roadblocks, and a quick bathroom break at a restoroute where the espresso tasted like Nescafé. The cafés in town had stopped serving lunch so he made do with a Tunisian style tuna salad spread over a pita laced with harissa, yummy but he definitely felt it working its way down his intestines as he climbed the well-worn steps of the El Jem Amphitheater.

When he reached the top level of the imposing structure, he was winded, his thighs burned and the acidity in his stomach was alarming. He stopped to catch his breath when he spotted a crusty splash of dried puke on the ground a few feet away, at the base of a block stone, approximately two feet high, that might have been a seat some seventeen hundred eighty years ago. This wouldn’t have caught his attention if it weren’t for the bright red crescented chili peppers that sat amidst the telltale bits of solid undigested food. He burped loudly to stave off the mounting nausea.

“Cheers!” A voice called out.

On top of the stone a very large black ant with long limbs was hauling a morsel of discarded dried fruit.

“Thank you.” The tourist said.

You couldn’t tell if the fruit had been thrown away fresh and had dried in the sun, on the stone, or if it was indeed a piece of dried fruit, but it was massive, many times the size and weight of its bearer.

“That’s a heavy load you’re carrying.” The tourist added, always glad to engage in conversation with the locals.

“Tell me about it.” The ant replied, in perfect though accented English. “This place isn’t what it used to be. Or so I’ve heard from the old folks.”

“Maybe it’s those No loitering signs I see everywhere.” The tourist said, though judging by the amount of trash laying about, it was a laughable suggestion.

“Nah. People are pigs. You can count on that. Still, we’re barely scraping a living out here, especially in low season, when they don’t have concerts.” The ant stopped and put down its bounty, standing on four of its hind legs, gesticulating busily with the others as it spoke passionately. “Times are lean my brother, times are lean. You have to go back to when the Romans ran the place for a more prosperous and thriving existence. Back then, in the Thysdrus days, when emperors from across the sea ruled the land, the story goes, there was food and drink aplenty. They had regular entertainment in there,” he pointed at the arena, a hundred feet below, “gladiator fights, men, women and children thrown in to combat starved wild beasts, not exactly a fair fight, but piles of bodies, carcasses, rivers of blood you could get swept away in, if you weren’t careful. Heaven.”

“Probably sucked if you were a gladiator, or a slave.” The tourist ventured.

“And then,” like an orating senator the ant was not to be interrupted, “when the Romans left, they turned the place into a fortress, more blood and guts spilled as armies of barbarians and arabs tried to take it down. My chops are salivating just thinking about it. How do you think we got to be so big? A couple of thousand years of decadence, mass murder and mayhem that’s how. And then–”the ant paused for emphasis, “the modern era; starvation, drought, exodus. Not exactly like we’re on the path to extinction, but times are lean my brother, times are lean. We did have a couple of feasts, when the movie crews showed up. Dad’s got some stories about that. This one time, a scout came back to lead the workers to a bleeding body, right in the middle of the arena. Dad was just a rookie then. When they got to the body, it tasted funny, like not right. Not human.”

“But wait. I thought carnivorous ants were red. You’re not red.”

“You offend me my brother!” The ant thrust a limb in my direction. “What does it matter what color I am? Maybe my ancestors were red, because of all the human blood they ingested, who knows? Who cares? We’re talking about survival here. You have to take what you can get.”

The ant thrust its upper body forward in a standoffish pose.

“I did not mean to offend. So sorry.” The tourist put his hands up in apology.

There was a sustained anxious pause.

“Hm—alright. I believe you mean well.” The ant relaxed. “We’re omni, if you must know. I am a worker, not a soldier. A scavenger, I eat what I find, and I do not kill or hunt. Anyway, it was a fake, the body, made of rubber or something, tasted like a coke bottle according to dad. But the fake blood, my brother, the fake blood was like honey, the sweetest nectar. I wish I’d been alive to taste it.”

“Better than the real thing?”

The ant cocked his antennas to one side. “Nothing is better than the real thing my brother.”

“Have you ever tasted it? Like–taken a little nip off the sticky hand of an unsuspecting tourist who just ate a baklava or an orange?”

“No way. Too dangerous. Queen says go look for scraps, I go look for scraps, bring back what I find, keep my mouth shut, and don’t take chances, that’s me. A good worker. Taking chances will get you killed and I aim to live a long and boring life my brother. Speaking of which”, the ant picked up its bounty again, “I better stop chatting. Queen must be starving.” Reinvigorated by the short rest, the ant rapidly reached the edge of the stone, separated by a two-inch crevasse from the next stone in the row. Without hesitation, the ant pushed the scrap of fruit over the edge and followed it, climbing down the vertical surface, slick as it was, tarnished by the centuries. When it reached the bottom, the ant paused, looked back at the tourist.

“If you throw away anything you think I might like, just put it here, between the two stones, would you? It’s my turf, and it’ll save me the climb.”

“You got it.” The tourist said. The ant sauntered away. “Hey! Wait a minute. How do you know all this stuff?”

“Rich oral tradition my brother.” The answer echoed in the crevasse.

“I’d love a guided tour?” The tourist said.

“I’m working my brother. No time for fun.”

 

Walking Project 116_el jem from chris worland on Vimeo.

punic city – carthage

Five times a day, the voices emanating from loudspeakers perched on minarets call the faithful to prayer. They resound from the Medina to La Goulette, silence the firing of two stroke moped engines, football matches on screens in cafés crowded almost exclusively with men, echo over heavily-guarded government buildings, from the Zoutina mosque down Habib Bourguiba avenue, across Tunis lake, climb the hill where the newly erected Taqwa mosque dwarfs the Acropolium (the old St Louis Cathedral) to reach the ruins of the city the Romans built on top of the Carthaginian one they destroyed, and descend again toward the Mediterranean, passing the remains of lavish roman villas and baths, spoils of the victors, and finally the abandoned punic port from where Hannibal set sail to conquer a large chunk of southern Europe.

I don’t know what the voices area saying, but I’d like to imagine that through the call to pray one can hear a cry for tolerance, a call to embrace the lessons of history that permeate every patch of dirt of this ancient land.

Walking Project 115_punic city – carthage from chris worland on Vimeo.

the city of cinema – rome

Il cinema è l’arma più forte” (“Cinema is the most powerful weapon”) – Benito Mussolini

It’s one of those dramatic twists of fate that the Italian dream factory, Rome’s Cinecittà studios, were designed and erected as a fascist propaganda machine. What else could you expect from the anarchist turned Hitler puppet, and ultimately big loser in the march of history, Benito Mussolini, Il Duce? As it turns out, Il Duce’s ambitions for a grander Italy projected through its cinematic production were fulfilled, albeit in ways he would not have approved. Cinecittà emerged from the horrors of war, and the dark ages of totalitarianism, as the headquarters of a flourishing film industry that rapidly eradicated its blemished past and reestablished itself as a proud ambassador of Italian cultural vitality.

In the youtube age, Rome’s city of cinema survives in part as a museum dedicated to a fading industry. Who knows what the future of cinema looks like? Certainly monopolizing large chunks of expensive real estate dedicated to a cultural product that struggles to find an audience seems anachronistic. I’d like to think though, that this “Hollywood on the Tiber”, this pantheon of film history, in a city jam-packed with heritage, deserves an entry in the registry of museums, temples, basilicas, obelisks, amphitheaters, pizzerias and gelato joints that make a tourist’s head spin.

And if you think that was preachy, you should hear me talk about fake news, jazz or the importance of independent bookstores that include a coffeeshop. Alternatively, binge watch the following films, all shot at Cinecittà: “Rome, Open City” (Rosselini), “Mamma Roma” (Pasolini), “Roman Holiday” (Wyler), “La Dolce Vita” (Fellini), “Contempt” (Godard), and “The Gangs of New York” (Scorcese).

“MOTORE!”

 

Walking Project 114_the city of cinema – rome from chris worland on Vimeo.

painted sky – echo mountain

I have a long-lived affinity for sunsets, photographing sunsets, dating back, as far as I can remember, to a summer in Cape Sounion, Greece, where the waning sun bathed the veranda of the bungalow we rented, and where, for the first time I used a camera, a Kodak Instamatic 110, to capture more than a snapshot. I was really proud of that shot of the sun setting over the mediterranean, a ball of fire reflecting on the calm water that gently lapped onto the beach that was our playground, the same view the ancient greeks who worshipped Poseidon at the nearby temple would have had, two thousand years earlier. I haven’t read Jules Verne’s novel, “Le Rayon Vert”, but saw Eric Rohmer’s film by the same title that refers to it, and have since stared at many sunsets looking for the ‘green flash’. I’ve never seen it so the phenomenon retains, in my eyes, an aura of mystery and myth that accompanies me every time I witness a sunset. What I’ve come to observe is that, green flash aside, every sunset has its magical moment when the sky feels like it’s been painted. And if you wish to capture it, good luck. Most likely you’ll have to wait, exercise patience, get in tune with the rhythm of the moment, so different from the hectic pace of our lives, but wait an instant too long, or blink, or walk with your head down, and it’s gone. Luckily, there’s always tomorrow.

Walking Project 113 – painted sky – Altadena from chris worland on Vimeo.

two capital vignettes – washington d.c.

Thumbs up, hats off and respect to the lonely protester stationed in front of the white house gates. He proudly sits in a foldable canvas lawn chair, holding up signs, representing, to thousands of visitors, from small town America and far flung autocracies, who may not know what ‘democracy looks like’, our freedom of expression. Otherwise, the place looksabout as dull and forbidding as the trump hotel a few blocks away, there are deep barricades encircling the perimeter, in addition to the cast iron fence, and armed secret service men with bulletproof vests on, and the only sign of life is the guard walking along the roof.

Walking Project 112_two capital vignettes – washington d.c. from chris worland on Vimeo.

just say…art – cambridge

I can hear the Kop ringing out with the famous Liverpool FC anthem, and at least one of the ‘artistes’ who contributed to the wild explosion of color that is Modeca Way, the graffiti alley located right off of Central Square in Cambridge, Mass., will know what I’m talking about.
When you walk through a storm
Hold your head up high
And don’t be afraid of the dark
At the end of a storm
There’s a golden sky
And the sweet silver song of a lark
Walk on through the wind
Walk on through the rain
Though your dreams be tossed and blown
Walk on, walk on
With hope in your heart
And you’ll never walk alone
You’ll never walk alone
Walk on, walk on
With hope in your heart
And you’ll never walk alone
You’ll never walk alone
Songwriters: Oscar Hammerstein Ii / Richard Rodgers

 

Walking Project 111_just say…art – cambridge from chris worland on Vimeo.

winter clouds but…

Storm clouds gathered overnight, darkening the sky over the foothills in the morning. When I set off for a quick jaunt in ‘our backyard’, the air was brisk with a fresh breeze promising to bring in more clouds but, as the day wore on…

No RAIN–you have to capitalize something you need badly–just another beautiful, mostly sunny day. I walked the familiar paths, kicking up a lot of dust, gazing at the amazing palette of grays, browns and yellows that is slowly but surely overtaking this landscape. I could almost hear the chaparral chanting, the dried creek bed pleading, the carcass of old oaks cursing for RAIN, please Rain! Pretty please.

Walking Project 110_winter clouds but… – altadena crest from chris worland on Vimeo.

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