Every walk tells a story

Tag: San Gabriels (Page 3 of 10)

pipes of rubio – rubio canyon

Like many of the canyons on the front range of the San Gabriels, Rubio harbors vestiges of past human activity: at the turn of the twentieth century, a train brought travelers from downtown LA into the canyon where they boarded a funicular that climbed the incline to “The White City” resort on Echo Mountain, there was mining too, before that. Abandoned to the inclement elements of this rugged eco-system, human endeavors have not fared well; thankfully, little remains, just enough concrete, wood and metal to remind visitors that while their ancestors may have been crazy, and ingenious enough to build a funicular on this steep, forbidding ridge, their efforts were ultimately futile.

If you follow the creek beyond the site of the funicular base, you’ll notice, clinging to the sidewalls of the canyon, sticking out of the sandy dried out creek bed, mingled in dense networks of dead branches, two networks of pipes. The old cast-iron, rusty, bent, mostly buried, useless, unless you use it as canvas for tagging, or, as I’ve seen done, if you recycle it as trail-building material. And then there is a line of white and blue PVC pipes, evidently still maintained, and still used to harvest the most precious thing the canyon has to offer–besides a cool getaway for hikers–namely water.

The pipes of Rubio
PVC or cast iron still
harvest fresh water
you can hear it flow gently
like the dripping from the falls

Meanwhile, on the Sam Merrill ‘Highway’–the gentler and much-used trail to Echo on the other side of the mountain…

Oh, there are other trails? Yes, many
i'll have to come back for that
Hi, Hi
Hi, hey
Are we almost there? The hotel? one more switchback
thanks man
Are we there yet? close, one more switchback
great
Hi, hi
It's like you stepped up your game,...Hi...How's it going?
After a while I was like, I can't do this work...Hello...
She's just scared, here, hold on to my arm
thank you
You want to go first, I feel like we're blocking you?
Thank you...

blowin’ in the wind – placerita canyon, los pinetos trail

Observations in tanka form from a walk that started in famed Placerita Canyon, traveled through a recently burned landscape in full natural recovery, and ended at the “Oak of the Golden Dream”, where in 1842, Francisco Lopez dreamed of, and then found gold, six years before John Sutter in Northern California (the full story).

(I owe the discovery of the Japanese poetical format to Harryette Mullen’s “Urban Tumbleweed, Notes from a Tanka Diary” ).

Kept moving through
cold, sun, wind on winter day
across a charred landscape
old growth oaks black like charcoal
sycamores stripped white, naked

Historical trail
they found gold near the oak tree
by the creek, blind, fooled
by the winter sun glistening
on the water like a dream
Historical trail
creekside, by the old oak tree
they planted cross, flag
and deed to claim land
they then ravaged with fool's greed

bobcat trail – Altadena Crest

The walking project has been on forced hiatus for a while–injury, work, life–that’s also prompted an identity crisis of sorts. What exactly and why exactly am I doing (with) these videos? The answer, as should have been obvious from the get go, lies in walking. I had to ramble a few miles in the foothills overlooking the buzzing city bathed in a filtered, soft winter afternoon light to rekindle the passion, and if not find the path forward, at least understand anew why I am walking it in the first place. It’s a way of coping with the constant brouhaha, the visual carpet-bombing, the sensory warp speed of life in laid-back Los Angeles; it’s an escape, but not an avoidance. It’s a way of absorbing the landscape, of growing a sense of place and belonging. One step at a time, I fill in my own map of the world, charted with idiosyncratic observations, chance encounters and an ever-increasing belief in the power of looking up and around, listening to the wind and the birds, slowing down.

“When the yellow leaf dropped from the tree…it struck me how that will never happen again, with that particular leaf.”

Jerry Ellis, “Walking the Trail, One man’s journey along the cherokee trail of tears”.

kickin’ it – Three Points/Mt Waterman loop

Along the Path
Along the path
Singed peeled white pine trunks erect in fields of ferns
eroded boulders cradling many fingers in bloom
spiked pinecones dripping sap kick'd to mark time.
Along the path
Feasts of scents sounds textures colors
thresholds into the imagination
Bear plays a scintillating saxophone to a swarming cloud of gnats
resting crosslegged on a bed of blue-eyed grass
hosting a drone choir of drunken bees
foot thumping the air on the downbeat
while oblivious workman-like ants zig and zag in double-time
he turns to camera
"honey-infused ursine blues is sooo much sweeter"
a painted lady weaves in approval around the bell of the horn
Oh Yeah
suddenly lizard scurries off beat crow shrieks the alarm
An intruder like a tourist walks into the alpine scenery
along the path he hums a few bars of Giant Steps
he enters the landscape like a painting a jam session a cinemascope drama an eight-hundred page romantic novel
with some anticipation much curiosity and measured wonder
long then short then long shadows drift and define
what he sees hears smells commits to memory

Singed peeled white pine trunks erect in fields of ferns
eroded boulders cradling many fingers in bloom
spiked pinecones dripping sap he kicks to mark time
along the path in the painting he enters like a landscape

life is…

…an early fall scramble on a little-used trail along the steep line of the white city funicular nature is slowly but certainly reclaiming; brushing against dry brown buckwheat, sagebrush, laurel, wild thyme and manzanita, dizzy with herb scents, drunk on testosterone; watching the sun drown in the distant ocean mist still powerful enough to brush the hills yellow ochre then blood orange, a few slim clouds pretending they’re going to cry a little but then just passing by; birds crowing, twittering, shrieking as they return to the nest for the night not paying too much mind to the clumsy and noisy intruder who stops often to catch his breath, before reaching the picnic tables at the summit, in the ballroom now reduced to its crumbling foundation, to savor a cup of hot tea in the chilling air that is finally letting go of summer; a sunset ramble.

trail bugs – Mount Wilson via Bailey canyon

For architectural reasons, the structures of the Mater Dolorosa Passionist Retreat Center, seen from the Bailey canyon trail, remind me of California missions, like the San Gabriel Mission, barely visible in the distance through a thin layer of morning fog.

Muted bells of Bailey
Cool dawn whisper
a moment of silence...
(for the enslaved Chumash Indians who built the San Gabriel Mission with lumber pillaged from the southern canyons of the San Gabriels)

There’s no escaping the urban rumble, the honking of trucks backing up, the many chainsaws, lawn mowers and leaf blowers prettying suburban yards below, the sirens, but as soon as the trail ducks deeper into the canyon, the atmosphere goes quiet, though not silent. Any warm body moving through will be escorted by a cloud of swarming flies, mozzies, and bees pollinating late summer blooms. Only a breeze or extreme temperatures would keep them away, and it’s a perfectly still, warm summer morning. What did the Chumash do about bugs?

Traversing soft white
buzzing buckwheat fields
A bee lands, dies in my coffee

I remember reading that, in the summer, groups of Chumash would migrate to higher altitudes in the range, places like Chilao to hunt and forage. They would thus also avoid the high temperatures of the foothills (and the armies of flying insects?). My return from Mt Wilson, contrastingly, is a long toll road slog in and out of sun-drenched, breezeless, dry chaparral. Still, it doesn’t get any better than this.

Whiny flies hover
like bloodthirsty drones
Summer trail schadenfreude
(for the drones)

three cups of tea – three T’s

It’s the time of year when the boughs of Jeffrey pines bend under the weight of green cones oozing resin that drips on the forest floor, on a boulder, or on the hat of the occasional passer-by, like the sweat from their brow drips on the trail, on their boots, or on the pages of a sketchbook. 

Gray summer stillness
through clouds of flies
buzzing, views of Mount Baldy

Three cups of tea, three views of Mount Baldy (also known as San Antonio), from each of the three T’s (Mounts Timber, Telegraph and Thunder), and three totally trite attempts at trail poetry.

Mozzies attacking
three bites a minute
August mountain peacefulness

It’s not often I’ve reached a rugged, exposed summit like Telegraph when the breeze was lesser than what the microphone on the smartphone picks up, which made for a warm day, sweetly punctuated by a canteen refill at the Columbine spring, and a hammering cold shower under the San Antonio falls. 

Silent summer heat
ice-cold spring water
sun, shade, nature takes and gives

sittin’ in the devil’s chair – devil’s punchbowl

The lord of the underworld, lucifer, the prince of darkness, shaitan, the devil himself may or may not have parked his posterior on the large mass of white rock that dominates the southern edge of the geological formation known as the Devil’s Punchbowl. In fact, that fiery pesky horned mythological figure must have been extremely active in these parts, judging by the number of valleys, backbones, rims, chairs named after it. And if I were to rate those devil-named attractions in sheer spectaculareness, this narrow bright white rocky promontory that juts out of the north slopes of the San Gabriels, with sheer cliffs dropping hundreds of feet on three sides would take the cake. Thus, I braved the heat, and embraced the solitude–the only humans I encountered were two campers packing out at the trailhead–to claim the spot for a quiet sit-down lunch with stellar panoramic views of the Antelope Valley. You can’t beat that. I even got in a short nap, thanks to a constant breeze that made the unavoidable sun exposure tolerable. It was a profound, dreamless, restful sleep leaning against a fence that kept me from sliding to a certain death. Rejuvenated, I made my way back, occasionally glancing at the site, thinking my imagination wasn’t vivid enough to picture the devil sitting up there. Instead my mind flashed back to the bighorn sheep I’d encountered near Bighorn peak, a couple of weeks ago. It had laid down on a smaller, less spectacular, but similar rock formation–with sheer cliffs on all but one side–and remained cool as a jazz drummer when I appeared. We exchanged a look and it returned to its meditation. I want that life, I thought, and moved on.

Eventually, I ducked into the east-facing slopes of South Fork, losing sight of the “chair”. The breeze couldn’t reach me, the afternoon heat reflected off of a scrubby landscape that offered little shade. It wasn’t quite ‘hotter than the devil’s ass’, but getting there–felt like. But then all signs of having been anywhere near purgatory dissolved rapidly into the very cold and abundant snow melt that still feeds the South Fork, where I may or may not have skinny dipped, parking my own ass on the sandy bottom until it stung from the cold.

bighorn bighorn

I stop for folded metamorphic rock, faces and limbs of beasts encrusted in tree trunks, butterflies, black lizzards amused at selfie-posing hikers, a cup of icy spring water from Columbine, often to catch my breath, occasionally to sketch an alpine landscape or a gnarly limber pine, for flowers I don’t know the names of and for those I do, for moments of silence and solace to not think about anything, and for a staring contest with bighorn sheep near Bighorn peak.

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