Every walk tells a story

Tag: San Gabriels (Page 6 of 10)

walk with an old friend – Will Thrall and Pallett peaks

After two consecutive outings of absolute and perfect aloness on the trail, I decided a little company would be in order. I’ve known Gaston Lagaffe since childhood, and if you are not familiar with this classic comic strip anti-hero, I highly recommend you look him up. These days, he spends most of his time seated at a computer, researching his latest invention, concocting schemes to avoid parking tickets, dreaming of Mademoiselle Jeanne, occasionally working, and often napping, or ‘thinking’ with his eyes closed, as he would protest. I thought it would be a great idea to enroll him as a walking buddy for an excursion into the Pleasant View Ridge Wilderness area of the San Gabriels. A win win; he gets to breathe some of that clean mountain air–rare treat for an office worker/inventor/comic strip character–and I have someone to chat with.

“Sweet. A hike! I’m in.” Gaston replied when I asked him to join me. He is a born enthusiast. “Should I drive?”

“Absolutely not.” The last time I sat in his junkyard jalopy we miraculously survived a flight. Yes, a flight, across a cow pasture, when Gaston volunteered to demonstrate the turbo booster he’d himself installed on his salvaged and often rebuilt Fiat 509 replica kit engine the night before.

“M’ENFIN!?” he’d exclaimed befuddledly in his native French, as the jalopy landed and rolled across the grass until, having slowed down to a crawl, it rear-ended a matronly Hereford grazing in its path. The incident instantly inspired Gaston to spend the next month drafting plans for a drone-propelled milking apparatus, but I’ll spare you the details of that experiment.

A combination of the early morning departure, the hour-long drive, and the mountain air got Gaston ‘thinking’ less than a mile from the trailhead. I droned into my own state of semi consciousness, lulled by the rhythm of my footsteps on the trail, the welcoming warning cries of crows, bluejays, sparrows and chipmunks, and stoned from the earthy smells of the forest of cedars and pines. After emerging from the sylvan depths of Cooper canyon, the trail undulated gently in a transitional zone, between high desert chaparral and alpine forest, crossing many scree slides littered with desiccated carcasses of fallen trees in various stages of decay.

“WOW!” Gaston exclaimed. “What was that?”

“A dead yucca. Watch out for the leaves. They sting.”

“Looked like a giant swan, with claws instead of feathers. Or kinda like the Gaffophone. Remember the Gaffophone?”

“How could I forget?” How could anyone forget the gargantuan hybrid string and wind instrument, best described as a bass harp, whose sound waves could literally take down airplanes when plucked the right way.

“I bet it would sound terrific from up here.” Gaston marveled at our first open and expansive view of the Antelope valley as we approached Burkhardt saddle. I worried for the pilots at Edwards Air Force Base,

After a well-earned snack break, we resumed our trek, due west, for the brutal ascent towards our destination, first Will Thrall peak then Pallett. Despite having consumed a protein-rich energy bar, Gaston was almost instantly cradled back into a ‘thinking’ state. But not for long. The terrain was slippery, the grade steep, and my breathing heavy.

“Are you sure this is safe?” Gaston could be unpredictably reasonable.

“It would be easier if you actually did your own walking, that’s for sure, but yeah. It’s safe.” Not very nice of me to play the guilt card,I know, especially with the poor frightened little figurine weighing merely a few ounces, but to my defense, I was struggling. In a good way, of course. Slowly but surely we continued, passing the inspirational plaque dedicated to Will Thrall at the summit of Will Thrall peak, which reads: “There’s physical, mental and moral strength to be found on a mountain peak.” My friend was reassured by the fact that enough people had traveled this far into the wilderness to warrant a monument. We took a couple of photos and moved on, following a faint use trail which I soon abandoned to walk the more interesting ridge.

“This isn’t walking. This is climbing.” Gaston said. His voice was shaking. I couldn’t tell if it was from fear of heights or from all the bouncing.

I didn’t answer. Instead I focused on where to plant my feet next.

“You’re using both your hands, and your feet. You’re climbing. You didn’t say anything about climbing”

“Are you scared?” I said, fully under the spell of the adrenaline rush that accompanies me with the summiting of any mountain.

“BOF!” He answered. Meaning…? Well, actually I’m not so sure what he meant. “No. I’m not scared. You’re the one who’s going to get hurt. you should be scared.” I guess he meant that my bones were more breakable than his, and he was right. “I don’t get it. All this work to get a nice view. Someone should build a solar powered ski lift.”

“A ski lift? It doesn’t snow up here anymore. At least not enough for skiing.” It used to though. Only a short distance from where we started that morning, in either direction on the Angeles Crest Highway, you can still see the remaining structures of now unexploited ski resorts. Their pillars and cables and machinery haunting the slopes of Mt Waterman, Mountain High and Table mountain like ghosts of a short-lived, wetter era.

“Hah! Want to hear about my formula for snow making? It’s coconut based.”

On a clear day, you get unobstructed views from this portion of Pleasant View Ridge reaching as far as the Sierras to the north, and a comprehensive panorama of the San Gabriels to the south. And they’re best enjoyed in silence, I believe, with just the whisper of the inevitable breeze in your ears. Something even a plastic figurine of Gaston’s stature understood. But his prolonged muteness on the way back to the car worried me. He wasn’t ‘thinking’ either, or he was doing so with his eyes opened for a change.

“You’re awfully quiet. Is the altitude getting to you?” I asked.

“Hm? Oh no. I was just thinking, Did you remember to display your adventure pass?”

“What?”

“Did you put that adventure pass thingy in your windshield? Because it said to do so at the trailhead.” Gaston insisted.

“Oh. No. I mean I don’t know. They never check anyway.” I didn’t tell him I have actually never purchased an adventure pass, much less displayed one. Because, first, I have never been cited for not having one–I know that’s not a fair excuse, kind of like a murderer saying he’ll just keep murdering until he gets caught, doesn’t make it any less wrong, but I don’t want to get into the politics of it–and second, I know how Gaston is about parking tickets.

“Yeah right. Who’s ‘they’? and how do you know they never check?”

“You’re worried about officer whatsisname?” I smiled. Ever since I’d known Gaston, he and a certain police officer had been engaged in a life or death cat and mouse game, a cop-and-parking-citation-avoider war as unresolvable as the Capulets and Montagues feud, the democrat and republican divide, the Rangers and Celtics rivalry (you non-soccer fans, look it up).

“You can laugh all you like, he’s one cunning law enforcer. And he always meets his quota.”

“When was the last time you got a parking ticket? Or a speeding ticket?” This time I laughed, even though I know it’s wrong to laugh at your own joke, but anyone who knows anything about Gaston’s jalopy would at least smile at the thought of it exceeding even a school zone speed limit.

“BOF!”Gaston was not amused. “I have never paid a parking ticket in my life.” He added defensively.

“So what are you worried about?”

“Doesn’t mean I didn’t get any. Besides, we drove your car, remember? So you’ll be getting the ticket.” Soon after this exchange my tired companion closed his eyes to meditate. I increased the pace, eager to beat the setting sun.

As suspected, there were no parking ticket on my windshield when we returned to the car. The disc of the sun, filtered through the forest surrounding the parking lot, was turning orange. Life all around us was audibly preparing for nightfall; diurnal creatures catching the last rays of heat while nocturnal beasts readied for the night’s hunt. We sat at a picnic table sipping a cup of hot tea, filled with all the positive energy we’d ingested during the day. Gaston was gazing at an eighty foot tall jeffrey pine that had been brought down by a recent storm, its massive trunk ripped in two, only four feet from the ground, with the lower part still stubbornly anchored to the forest floor, and the upper, totally stripped of its bark, resting at a forty-five degree angle on the unperturbed, erect trunk of a neighboring incense cedar.

“You think there’s a way to drag that tree trunk to somewhere flat?” Gaston asked. We’re talking about eighty feet of solid wood, five to seven feet in diameter. “I was thinking about the Gaffophone. It needs a low end wind instrument to round out the sound. If we could drag this thing to an open area, then I could hollow it out, drill some holes in the right spots, you know, like a giant recorder.” Gaston was inspired. He laid out, sparing me unecessarily technical details, his entire organic basso profundo musical theory, and how we should do this more often, so that he might single out more trees, especially those gnarly, twisted, windswept limber pines found at higher altitudes. He was envisioning plans to carve a whole orchestra from the forest, for which he would write a symphony to be performed every year on Burkhardt saddle, on or around September twenty-two, the autumn equinox, to commemorate this day, the day of Gaston’s first hike in the San Gabriels. He would name it “Mademoiselle Jeanne”, for his Dulcinea.

“What do you think?” Gaston asked.

“Zzzzzz.”

“M’ENFIN!”

 

Walking Project 133_Will Thrall peak – walk with an old friend from chris worland on Vimeo.

the hat – ontario and bighorn peaks

(Foley session for a scene where a HIKER wearing a blue hat tramps up to Ontario peak)

EXT. ICEHOUSE TRAILHEAD PARKING LOT; DAY

The sun filtered through a forest of pines, cedars and sycamores, rises over the near empty parking lot. THE HIKER dons his blue hat, hiking shoes and backpack.

Beep beep beep SLAM

Pit pat pit pat

pit pat skrunch skrunch

tweet tweet tweet tweet

gulp gulp gulp gulp

aaaaah…

skrunch skrunch skrunch skrunch

pit pat skrunch skrunch (loop ten times)

aaa…whew aaa…whew aaa…whew aaa…whew (andante)

caw caw aaa…whew CAW

scrap scrap skrunch skrunch

rattle rattle RATTLE OH

SHIT shit shit scrap

skrunch scrap skrunch scrakrunch

whew aa…whew aa…whew aa…whew (vivace)

thump    thump    thump    thump 

buzzz buzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

skrunch skrunch skrunch skrunch

splat splat skrunch splat

pit skrunch pat skrunch (loop ten times)

ha whew ha whew ha whew ha whew (molto vivace)

thump thump thump thump

aaa whew WOWEEE (pianissimo)

(silence)

 

 

Walking Project 130_the hat – ontario and bighorn peaks from chris worland on Vimeo.

lunch with a sparrow – Mt Baldy

Lunch with a Hiker

The loud clanging of heavy machinery woke me up, followed, as if that wasn’t disturbance enough, by gunshots echoing through the upper reaches of San Antonio canyon, where I nest. I was just a hatchling when the humans started reconstructing the lodge at Manker Flats, seems like half a lifetime ago, so you’d think I would be used to the noise, but not so. Relaxing is not exactly a sparrow’s strong suit, and a good thing too because being nervous and twitchy is tantamount to survival in these parts; what with all the prowling, slithering, soaring predators out there, you have to stay alert, always on the move. Anyhow, I flew off before the first report faded into the alpine forest. I drifted past the parking area, straight up the eastern slope of the canyon, riding the gentle and warm morning breeze rising from the valley. I crossed the ski lift service road, vaguely following the path of the ski hut trail that snakes up the canyon towards the Baldy bowl. That’s where I nearly bumped into the hiker.

He was standing in the shade of a giant incense cedar, wiping the sweat off his brow, breathing heavily. Good thing his crimson shirt and ultramarine hat were hard to miss or I might have literally landed on him. Another reason why you can’t and shouldn’t relax out here; you never know what kind of obstacle is going to suddenly obstruct your flight path. After a swift bank and dodge maneuver, I hid on a branch above his head. Nothing like a bird’s eye view, in case you need to make a speedy escape, to stay ahead of the game or, as in this case, to spy on feeding opportunities. He unshouldered his backpack, which sent me scurrying further up the tree. I’d witnessed this kind of behavior before and it held great promise, so I decided to hang around, at least for a second. Sure enough, a moment later, the hiker extracted a bag full of trail mix and started munching. He was sloppy, dropping all kinds of crumbs around him. Even though I hadn’t had breakfast yet, I perched and watched patiently. When he finally proceeded up the trail, I dove down to where he was standing and I had myself a feast. It was the kind of homemade mixed bag full of nuts, a bit hard, dried fruit, yuk!, chocolate nibs, oh yeah!, and seeds, jackpot! Man, I liked this guy, he didn’t go for fruit, or worse, those protein bars that caused havoc in my digestive tract. Now, if only he’d included millet. My kingdom for some millet!

If you predicted that I followed the hiker with the scarlet shirt, you predicted right. Wouldn’t you? I mean, talk about a meal ticket. I knew that, by scavenging off of human sloppiness, I was upsetting the ecosystem. I should be breaking my wings  and scratching my beak pecking for seeds in my natural habitat instead, but here’s my theory on the subject: they ain’t going nowhere. They, meaning the humans, the carnivorous bipeds. In fact, from what my folks told me, whose folks had told them, and so on for generations, they are slowly but surely multiplying. Like it or not, they are becoming part of the natural habitat, at least for the time being, and as long as they’re being naturally wasteful, why shouldn’t I reap the benefits? I suppose you could make the argument that if they keep coming, they’ll eventually chop down so many trees, we’ll be fighting for a safe place to nest, like my sister and her flock whose home was felled when the park rangers crew built their new outhouse. She never misses a chance to excrete a load of uric acid on those shiny cars in revenge. She’s quite militant, understandably, and likes to warn anyone who will listen about a future of concrete, electric cables, air thick with lung-corroding particles, and fat, domesticated cats who’ll swipe at you just for fun. I have to admit that, judging by the stories our city cousin Tweetie tells, making a living in close proximity to throngs of men sounds like a nightmare. It shows too. I mean Tweetie looks sickly. Must be the diet. But I digress.

The only downside to this whole uphill journey with the hiker was that it took forever. He stopped three more times, but only to drink, and admire the views. I felt like telling him to hurry up, the real payola was the three-hundred-sixty degree panorama at the Baldy summit. On a good day, you could see as far as  the jagged contours of the Sierras to the north, Catalina island to the south, and the imposing figures of San Jacinto and San Gorgonio to the southeast. You should see what it looks like from up here!

He did finally manage to drag himself to the plaque that marks the summit. There, he snapped a picture and collapsed behind one of the stone walls that protect hikers from the often windy conditions. I found a thorny scrub a few feet away to hide under, and waited for scraps, playing it safe.  From the many sounds he was making, I gathered he enjoyed his lunch. He took a sip of a steaming liquid and burped loudly. I darted deeper into the bush. I wasn’t alone.

There was a fellow sparrow a few hops away. He was bulkier than me, but I wasn’t about to let that intimidate me out of a gourmet meal. I sprang towards him, tweeting as ferociously as I could, channeling my interpretation of feline aggression. He took flight. I turned my attention back to the hiker.

The man had put away his lunch and was scribbling in a sketchbook. He was sprawled on the dirt, and both his arms were totally absorbed in the activity. I decided to test the waters and hopped cautiously into the open ground that separated us. He glanced over, but paid me no mind. What could he be so absorbed in? After all, the Mount Baldy summit earned its name from being just that, a bald, rocky hump, not exactly a fit subject for great art, but what do I know? I spotted some bread crumbs that had conveniently rolled over to where I could reach them without being within the hiker’s reach. This was way out of my comfort zone, but I was thinking about the big guy I’d just scared off who was bound to return, and the tedious flight up the mountain. and the chocolate nibs. I had to go for it.

The hiker turned his head towards me. I froze. He froze.

“Hey buddy.” He said.

I could tell by the pitch of his voice he meant no harm. I scanned the dirt and pecked rapidly, like there was no tomorrow. He turned his sketchbook slightly towards me. That made me skip back a few hops. Skittish and nervous, that’s how you survive out here. He started scribbling again, looking up and down from his book to me in quick glances. That threw me off for a second, but I couldn’t see the harm in it. I pecked some more but then I got curious. I lifted off and was immediately swept away by the wind.

“No, don’t go!” I heard his voice receding.

Quick as a dart, I caught my balance, spread out my wings to brake and redirect, and soon escaped the wind gust.

A moment later I flew over the hiker and caught a glimpse of his work. As I suspected, there wasn’t much to it; the spot is not a subject for great art, and this guy was no great artist. However, something stood out in the middle of the pencil landscape, which at first I didn’t recognize because it wasn’t in the view I had of the same landscape. The familiar shape consisted of a half a dozen pencil marks at best; two roundish balls, one smaller on top of the other, a thick stick, a flat leaf maybe, protruding from the side of the larger ball, while a short ‘v’ extended out of the opposite side of the smaller ball. The whole thing was greyed in except for a spot on the smaller ball, near the middle, where you could see the white of the paper, except for a dot, right in the center, like a bull’s eye, or what I should have recognized as a bird’s eye, staring straight at me.

I landed back under the safety of the thorny scrub, scanned the surroundings for other threats and, finding none, resumed my feasting. I was soon joined by the hefty opportunist I’d scared off earlier. I didn’t say anything; there was plenty to go around. Unperturbed, we filled our bellies accompanied by the comforting, rhythmic, relaxing rumble of human snoring.

 

Walking Project 129_lunch with a sparrow – Mt Baldy from chris worland on Vimeo.

trail – Mt Waterman and Twin Peaks

Some days you just want to keep your nose on the trail, with a side glance, or two. You could also call this Walk with Me.

Oh, and yes, the fog layer you see blanketing and obstructing a view of the entire Los Angeles basin, once you arrive at the Twin Peaks summit, is  smoke from the Holy, Cranston and Valley fires burning in the Cleveland, San Jacinto and San Bernardino forests respectively. You can smell it.

 

WP128_trail – Mt Waterman, Twin Peaks from chris worland on Vimeo.

walking – Mt Wilson loop – Rim trail

Walking

through an alpine forest buzzing with the sound of generators powering antennas, relays and telescopes on Mount Wilson and a cloud of tiny flies and mozzies escorting the heat radiating  from my body that’s working so hard to maintain its temperature within the narrow margin of survivability.

through a sun-drenched valley where crowds of tree carcasses spread their charred, arching limbs over renascent chaparral while my whining companions, in their infinite wisdom, remain under the protective shade of the pine forest canopy, hoping to ambush some other warm-blooded life form.

over a ridge the flames struggled to cross and into a less ravaged oak forest where the still abundant dead trees aren’t burn or lightning victims but losers in the struggle to suck enough moisture up their sinewy, evocative, majestic trunks from a depleted aquifer.

through a deserted campground guarded by an army of ants busy turning a stump into a pile of rust-colored sawdust.

through another stretch of alpine forest at higher elevation on a trail that, thankfully, alternates between breezy, exposed switchbacks and long traverses on the northern, shaded slope of Wilson where, for some dare I say mystical reason, the flies and mozzies are fewer, the sound of generators almost inaudible, and the number of deer encounters outnumbered that of humans four to none.

Walking Project 126_walking through – Mt Wilson-Rim trail from chris worland on Vimeo.

summer morning – unedited #04

I think it was in the LA TImes, a Steve Lopez column, that I read that Southern California has only two seasons, brown and green. The blistering record-breaking heatwaves that have hit us this past month have made this even more evident, and the weather patterns of these past few decades indicate that the brown season is extending. Trees, old growth pines, oaks, eucalyptus and sycamores are dying in record numbers–not to mention forest fires–and the chaparral is gradually favoring a thorny desert-friendly vegetation where evergreen manzanita and laurel sumac typically dominate. The upside is that, under a soft early morning light there is an abundance of rich earthy tones that contrast stubbornly with beds of grey dead matter, and the occasional splash of white, lemon or scarlet from brave flowers. Go high enough and silhouettes of defiant yuccas in full bloom line the ridges like the caravan of death in “The Seventh Seal”. They don’t seem to mind the rationing of rainwater, neither does the wild sage I like to pick and attach to my backpack. It smells a lot better than a sweat-soaked tee-shirt after a couple of hours of trail scrambling. This palette of life and death is both daunting and inspiring. For now at least, until the sun peaks out over the eastern shadow of Muir peak and Panorama point, it’s slightly cooler on the ruins of Echo Mountain than in the San Gabriel Valley below.

Walking Project 125_summer morning- unedited #04 from chris worland on Vimeo.

early spring, unedited # 02 – altadena crest trail

I see Things When I Walk (For Claude Nougaro)

The angel sat cross-legged on what remains of the ‘love seat’ when, after much sweating, I reached the ruins of the Echo Mountain Resort. He sat on the very spot where Thaddeus Lowe, father of the ill-fated Mt Lowe Railway that used to take visitors on an hair-raising ride from the resort to the Mt Lowe summit, twenty-four hundred feet higher, used to sit with his wife Leontine admiring sunsets over the Los Angeles basin. The ageless face turned slowly when I approached. He smiled with his deeply set dark eyes, shadowed by thick, abundant eyebrows that matched his bushy black hair. If I had to guess I would say he was from Toulouse, but who knows. Regardless, I was surprised; in twenty years of hiking to this spot regularly I’d never encountered anyone. The crowds that reach the resort tend not to drift this far over to the eastern edge of the ruins.

What do you see? Asked the angel.

What do you mean? I replied, and aware, for the first times that I’d identified this dark-haired buddha-like apparition as an angel.

When you walk…he explained.

When I walk? I see–things? I threw out. Why an angel?

What?

I see things when I walk. Why not an old man with an angel face?

Do you see what I see?

What?

What I see.

I see what I see. Why not an old man with an angel face twirling an angel feather over his head? I see things buzzing, blooming, flying, crawling, floating, shining, shimmering, I pointed at him, sitting, rotting, pollinating, scampering, scattering, cawing, chirping…

WAIT. The angel interrupted.

What?

Do you see this feather? He leaned forward and said, in an enthusiastic, overjoyed, almost ecstatic whisper, because if you do the world is saved! SAVED, You hear me? Love will prevail! Beauty and goodness will rule the earth!

I see.

 

 

Walking Project 119_early spring, unedited # 02 – altadena crest trail from chris worland on Vimeo.

unedited #01 – echo mountain

A couple of fun koindinks today. First, I landed on the ruins of the Echo Mountain Resort early enough to avoid the crowds, so I was able to enjoy a cup of chai and a morning read, in the spot where, a century ago, travelers partied, danced, gambled, and frolicked,  and I came across this Byron stanza, totally unplanned:

In Venice Tasso’s echoes are no more,

And silent rows the songless gondolier;

Her palaces are crumbling to the shore,

And music meets not always now the ear:

Those days are gone–but Beauty still is here;

States fall, arts fade–but Nature doth not die,

Nor yet forget how Venice once was dear,

The pleasant place of all festivity,

The revel of the earth, the masque of Italy!

from Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, Canto IV, by Lord Byron

Second, I finished this early spring morning walk at Cafe de Leche, in Altadena. Now, any joint that’s going to have Joe Dassin’s “Champs Elysées” on their playlist is alright by me. I used to really dig this stuff as a kid, go figure. It’s really, really obscure, unless you’re a fifty-something francophone with questionable musical tastes.

Walking Project 118_unedited #01 – echo from chris worland on Vimeo.

painted sky – echo mountain

I have a long-lived affinity for sunsets, photographing sunsets, dating back, as far as I can remember, to a summer in Cape Sounion, Greece, where the waning sun bathed the veranda of the bungalow we rented, and where, for the first time I used a camera, a Kodak Instamatic 110, to capture more than a snapshot. I was really proud of that shot of the sun setting over the mediterranean, a ball of fire reflecting on the calm water that gently lapped onto the beach that was our playground, the same view the ancient greeks who worshipped Poseidon at the nearby temple would have had, two thousand years earlier. I haven’t read Jules Verne’s novel, “Le Rayon Vert”, but saw Eric Rohmer’s film by the same title that refers to it, and have since stared at many sunsets looking for the ‘green flash’. I’ve never seen it so the phenomenon retains, in my eyes, an aura of mystery and myth that accompanies me every time I witness a sunset. What I’ve come to observe is that, green flash aside, every sunset has its magical moment when the sky feels like it’s been painted. And if you wish to capture it, good luck. Most likely you’ll have to wait, exercise patience, get in tune with the rhythm of the moment, so different from the hectic pace of our lives, but wait an instant too long, or blink, or walk with your head down, and it’s gone. Luckily, there’s always tomorrow.

Walking Project 113 – painted sky – Altadena from chris worland on Vimeo.

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